The Paris Métro

For me, one of the most necessary experiences to have in Paris is not necessarily the obvious towers, etc. Rather, when people visit Paris I tell them they must ride the metro. As much as possible.

I am a fan of the metro for several reasons: efficiency, convenience (don’t they say you’re never more than 750 m from a station? Well, I’ve been every bit of that 750 m distance in the pouring rain!), the “green factor”, but most of all, the experience of it. It’s like Forrest with his box of chocolates… you never know what you’re going to get.

At times it’s peaceful. Others, you’re forced to listen to the pounding bass of someone’s house music being blasted. Sometimes you have a car to yourself. Others you’re packed in like sardines. I’ve witnessed acts of violence and acts of extreme kindness. I’ve heard music – some good, some bad. I’ve smelled the stench of someone who hasn’t bathed in weeks contrasted by another’s sweet French perfume. I’ve seen vomit. I’ve seen dogs, mosquitoes, and mice. I’ve seen homeless people and exploited children. I’ve heard more languages than anywhere I’ve ever been. I’ve even heard of love beginning in the Metro.

It’s the best and the worst of the world. It is a microcosm of a place called Paris.

L’Oisive Thé: A Delightful Little Parisian Tea Room

The first time I moved to Paris, I had someone, a Parisienne, tell me that I must go to La Butte aux Cailles, a street in the 13th that she described as quaint and pleasant. Her enthusiasm for this street was enough to ensure it made it to the “must-do before I leave in three months” list without me ever questioning it. I suppose I must have finally gone there on a Sunday because I found very little on that street. I checked and re-checked the map- was I in the right place? Had I taken le mauvais chemin? Nope, this was it – a non-descript dead couple of blocks with nothing happening. Needless to say, I was very disappointed.

Then I met Chloé. Chloé is French, lives in the 13th, and finds interesting blogs – often about Paris – like it’s her job. She eventually became my afternoon tea buddy, and it was with her that I found myself truly discovering La Butte aux Cailles. She had come across a blog of an American who had opened a salon de thé on the very street I had failed to find excitement on, so we made a date to try it out.

L’OisiveThé was indeed a charming little spot that in the end made up for what I still found its neighbors to be lacking. The corner location gives the space a lovely brightness, and the cozy room was bustling on that Saturday afternoon. The mismatched tables and chairs is a design practice that I love, so I felt good about the spot before we were even seated.

As I recall, the tea choices were slimmer than other tea rooms we had frequented together, but the gateaux and patisseries were definitely on the mark and very fresh. There’s a delightful mix of the pastries people travel hundreds of miles to savor in France with those we love in the United States. I am reminded of the traditional American coffee cake, which we allow ourselves to enjoy at any hour of the day, as long as it’s accompanied by a good coffee or tea. An American who embraces the two cultures, the owner of L’OisiveThé has outdone her neighbors and created a lovely escape from the busyness that in Paris.

Update: Since our visit, L’OisiveThé has started to sell yarn and offer knitting “parties” on a regular basis. It sounds like it’s quite the success.

L’OisiveThé
at rue de la Butte aux Cailles and rue Jean-Marie Jégo
Tél : +33 (0)1 53 80 31 33
Métro: Corvisart ou Place d’Italie
Open Tuesday to Thursday 12h to 19h and Friday to Sunday from 12h to 20h. Closed Mondays.